Jake Searle's Garden

Appearance

Orcane ​

Orcane is the lovable-trickster-orca-dog, who is a featured character in Rivals of Aether 2, a game which I have been enjoying a lot lately. After seeing that a plush of Orcane that was released a few months ago came with an in-game yarn skin, I knew that I had to recreate it in crochet.

Yes, I know the texture looks more knit than crochet, but I can't knit

Tools & Materials ​

  • Crochet hook size 4.0mm (US G/6): I like the Clover Amour, which can be found at most local craft stores and Michael's
  • Scissors
  • Tapestry needle
  • Stitch marker
  • Stuffing: I like to use polyester stuffing, but scrap yarn and other materials work

Yarn ​

Recommended: 4.0mm hook & worsted (4 / Medium) weight yarn

Using the following tools and yarns, I ended up with a plush approximately 7 inches in length, 4 inches tall, and 4 inches wide (17cm x 10cm x 10cm). Use whichever size of yarn you'd like, but it may end up larger or smaller. For amigurumi, I like to use a hook one size/1mm smaller than suggested on the yarn in order to get tight stitches.

I use the names of Michael's Impeccable yarn line because it's the most widespread in the US, and it's easy to get a sense for what the color should look like. Of course, please support your local yarn shops if that's an option available to you.

For body parts

  • White
  • Royal Blue - This is for the main palette for this skin. There are also 3 alternative palettes to try!
  • Soft Rose

For sewing - You should only need a small amount of each. About 2 yards/meters.

  • Black
  • Butterscotch Yellow

Stitches ​

Abbr.Description
sl stSlip stitch
scSingle crochet
dcDouble crochet
incIncrease - This pattern was written with invisible increases (where the first stitch is FLO) in mind, but normal increases work also
3sc in 13 single crochets into the same stitch
4sc in 14 single crochets into the same stitch
decDecrease - This pattern was written with invisible decreases in mind (where you yarn through the front loops of each of the two stitches, and single crochet them together), but normal decreases work also
sc3togSingle crochet 3 together - I wouldn't recommend doing this "invisibly"
sc4togSingle crochet 4 together
boBobble stitch
BLO{X, Y, Z}Back-loops only - Do the stitches "X, Y, Z" in back loops only
in same stitch{X, Y, Z}Work each stitch "X, Y, Z" into the same stitch

These stitches are in American Notation

Parts ​

#Part
1xBody
2xFront Legs
2xBack Legs
1xDorsal Fin
2xEye Details
4xCircle Details

Body ​

  1. In blue: 6sc in a magic circle (6)
  2. white: 2sc, blue: inc, 2sc, inc
  3. white: 2inc, blue: 6inc (16)
  4. white: 2[sc, inc], blue: 4[sc, inc, sc] (22)
  5. white: 5sc, inc, blue: 2[7sc, inc] (25)
  6. white: 3sc, inc, 3sc, blue: 17sc, inc (27)
  7. white: 9sc, blue: 8sc, inc, 8sc, white: sc (28)
  8. 7sc, inc, 2sc, blue: 17sc, white: inc (30)
  9. sc, move the stitch counter as if this were the last stitch in row 8[1]
  10. 10sc, blue: 9sc, inc, 8sc, white: 2sc (31)
  11. 10sc, blue: 20sc, white: sc (31)
  12. 4sc, inc, 5sc, blue: 20sc, white: sc (32)
  13. 10sc blue: 22sc (32)
  14. white: 9sc, inc, blue: 10sc, dec, 10sc (32)
  15. white: 11sc, blue: 19sc, dec (31)
  16. white: sc, move the stitch counter[1]
  17. 5sc, inc, 5sc, blue: 20sc (32)
  18. white: 12sc, blue: 9sc, dec, 9sc (31)
  19. white: 12sc, blue: 17sc, dec (30)
  20. white: 11sc, inc, blue: 2[7sc, dec] (29)
  21. white: 13sc, blue: 7sc, dec, 7sc (28)
  22. white: 13sc, blue: 2[5sc, dec], sc (26)
  23. sc, move the stitch counter[1]
  24. white: 13sc, blue: 2[2sc, dec, 2sc], sc (24)
  25. white: 13sc, blue: 2[3sc, dec], sc (22)
  26. white: 13sc, blue: 2[sc, dec, sc], sc (20)
  27. sc, white: 11sc, blue: 6sc, dec (19)
  28. 2sc, white: 8sc, blue: sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc (17)
    • Stuff object
  29. 2sc, white: 3sc, dec, sc, blue: 7sc, dec (15)
  30. sc, move the stitch counter[1]
  31. sc, white: 3sc, (cut white) blue: 5sc, dec, 4sc (14)
  32. 4sc, dec, 4sc, 3inc, sc (16)
  33. 2dec, 4[sc, dec] (10)
  34. 5sc, 2sc, inc, 2sc (11)
  35. 2sc, move the stitch counter[1]
  36. 2sc, inc, 2sc, 5sc, inc (13)
  37. 5sc, inc, 7sc (14)
  38. 3sc, inc, 3sc, 3sc, inc, 3sc (16)
  39. 7sc, inc, 8sc (17)
  40. 7sc, dec, 8sc (16)
    • Start right fin
  41. sc, skip 7, sc, and continue clockwise in the round, 7sc (9)
  42. 3[sc, dec] (6)
  43. sl st, finish off, and weave tail to close

Starting from the stitches skipped in row 41:

41b. inc, 7sc, inc (9)
42b. 3[sc, dec] (6)
43b. sl st, finish off, and weave tail to close

Front Legs ​

Make 2

  1. In pink: 6sc in a magic circle (6)
  2. white: 6inc (12)
  3. 2inc, 5[sc, inc] (19)
  4. BLO{ 2[sc, inc, sc], 3sc }, 4[ BLO{ sc }, bo ], BLO{ 2sc }
    • When doing the bobble stitches, do them through both loops! These stitches will be the toes.
  5. 2[3sc, inc], 3[sc3tog], sc4tog (14)
  6. 2[2sc, inc, 2sc], 4sc (16)
  7. 2[5sc, inc], 2dec (16)
  8. 14sc, 2inc (18)
  9. 14sc, 2[sc, inc] (20)
  10. sc, move the stitch counter as if this were the last stitch in row 9[1]
  11. blue: 2[5sc, dec], 6sc (cut white) (18)
  12. 18sc (18)
  13. 2[2sc, dec, 2sc], 2[sc, dec] (14)
    • Lightly stuff the bottom of the foot (not the leg)
  14. 2dec, 2[sc, dec], 2dec (8)
  15. 2[sc, dec, sc] (6)
  16. sl st, finish off, and weave tail to close

Back Legs ​

Make 2

  1. In pink: 6sc in a magic circle (6)
  2. blue: 6inc (12)
  3. 3[sc, inc], 2[2sc, inc] (17)
  4. BLO{ 2[2sc, inc], 3sc }, 4[bo, BLO{ sc }]
    • When doing the bobble stitches, do them through both loops!
  5. 14sc, dec, sc3tog (16)
  6. 14sc, 2[4sc in 1] (22)
  7. 14sc, blue: 2[3sc, inc] (24)
  8. sc, white: sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 3sc, blue: dec, 10sc (cut white) (21)
  9. 5dec, 11sc (16)
  10. sc, move the stitch counter as if this were the last stitch in row 9[1]
  11. 16sc (16)
  12. 2[sc, dec], 4sc, dec, 4sc (13)
    • Lightly stuff the bottom of the foot (not the leg)
  13. 2dec, 3[sc, dec] (8)
  14. 2[sc, dec, sc] (6)
  15. sl st, finish off, and weave tail to close

Dorsal Fin ​

  1. In blue: 6sc in a magic circle (6)
  2. 2inc, 2[sc, inc] (10)
  3. inc, 3sc in 1, 8sc (13)
  4. inc, 2[sc, inc], 8sc (16)
  5. 2[3sc, inc], 3sc, dec, 3sc (17)
  6. 9sc, inc, 5sc, dec (17)
  7. sl st and finish off, leaving a tail for sewing

Eye Details ​

Make 2

  1. In white: 6sc in a magic circle (6)
  2. inc, in same stitch{sc, 2dc, sc}, 2inc, in same stitch{sc, 2dc, sc}, inc
  3. sl st and finish off, leaving a tail for sewing

Circle Details ​

Make 4

  1. In white: 6sc in a magic circle (6)
  2. sl st and finish off, leaving a tail for sewing

Assembly ​

Sew a circle on each front leg

Sew on legs here. Put the front legs slightly behind the "smile" in the color changes. Put the back legs on at the same height, with only one stitch between them

[Optional] Sew a single stitch between the leg and the inside of the body to have it stay in place better

Sew the dorsal fin on, with the front of the fin lining up with the middle of the front legs

Sew a circle behind each back leg

Embroider the eyes onto the eye detail: 4 black stitches, 3 yellow stitches, 1 more black stitch

Sew on the eye details here. Leave a border of ~2 blue stitches between the eye and the mouth

Embroider 4 toe beans, in pink, on each foot. I did 3 stitches each

Footnotes

[1]

Most amigurumi tends to slowly spiral over time, and this can vary with tension, hook size, yarn size, etc. To keep each half of a shape even, for me it works best to add this "bonus stitch" every 6 rows. If your tension is higher, you could do this more often (every 5 or 4 rows). If your tension is looser, you could do this less often (every 7 to 8 rows). If you have perfect tension, you can omit this entirely.

What my tension looks like if the first stitch of each row is green